As Spring Paris Fashion Week comes to a close, there is one show that stood out to us all. Maison Margiela had heads turning left and right, matter of fact everybody’s neck was broken by the end of the show. The disgusting reality of Maison Margiela is that no one can keep up. Maison Margiela was a breath of fresh air in a world full of shien capitalistic copycats. Maison Margiela brought to life not only the artistic craftsmanship of fashion but the controversial commentary of what art evokes. I love how Maison Margiela dives deep into the most poignant side of fashion;objectification, as Galliano quite literally dresses his models as porcelain dolls. These are the dolls I wish I had growing up, representation from all across the board was presented at the show from every different body type to skin color or gender or genderless, this show was fantastic.
What a dream it must have been to attend. I also love the use of makeup through the subtle pops of color complemented with the heavy dramatic use of neutrals draped on the body. The use of narration throughout this piece evokes a whole different emotion from the viewers, as we are first presented with the model at the top of the show escaping their ultimate demise we are met with their silhouette of a distorted body that slowly swans into a broken catwalk. The use of music throughout this piece truly complemented the tone of John Galliano. A beautiful use of arch and evolution was conveyed by each model on the runway. From each model’s entrance to their exit, John Galliano shares the story of what I interpreted as an exploration of self-discovery. On this runway, we are transported into a 1930’s film noir set as creative director John Galliano does something no other creative director has done in a while; he curates a feeling through the art of storytelling, a show that no one will truly ever forget. I loved his use of feminine and masculine pieces, such as an exposed chest and corset with a pair of men’s trousers. Galliano really creates a beautiful contradiction with the use of the fragile porcelain skin and the rugged and dark use of material.
One gorgeous detail specifically that was groundbreaking was the use of audience eye contact within the opening piece. Something we never see is the acknowledgment between consumer and designer and this was truly revolutionary. Galliano is constantly playing between this theme of predator and prey, consumer and artist, as he even quite literally has one of his pieces resemble the hooves of an animal amongst one of his models an allude to Margiela’s earlier days. Galliano’s use of movement throughout the runway was a refreshing take from the deadpan model walks of the usual mid 2000s. With the gesture to the 30’s, Galliano certainly resurrects fashion from the great depression in what was the white out of the early to mid 2000’s and brings us back to what we have been craving for years; individualism and creativity. I highly believe we are taking a step into a revolution of the new roaring 20s and giving a new face to fashion in 2024.
pinkies up,
-M